Algarve & Portugal - Possible Itinerary - Summer 2008

As you are coming to the Algarve between 20 to 26 July, I STRONGLY repeat STRONGLY do not recommend Albufeira.

This is peak tourist season.

Albufeira will be full of tourists from Northern Europe at that time. It has lost its Portuguese character. If you want a resort full of English, Irish, and Dutch Pubs then Albufeira is OK.

Otherwise, I would strongly recommend you consider the following alternatives:

1) Lagos

In the Western Algarve and where I live. Dating from prehistoric times, it retains its city walls and Portuguese character. Lots of Portuguese restaurants. Historically, it was the jumping of point for the Portuguese Voyages of Discovery.

Great Beaches - Meia Praia, 5km of sand, Porto de Mos, Praia Dona Ana.

An ideal departure point for exploring the Algarve and the West Coast.

Have a look at this link on wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lagos,_Portugal

If you read Portuguese, see this one as well:

http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lagos_(Portugal)

In Lagos, I can recommend, the Marina Club which should suit your needs.

See:

http://www.marinaclub.pt/

Also, The Hotel Aqualuz

http://www.aqualuz.com/en/home.html

Both the above are near beaches but also within easy walking distance of the town for restaurants and bars.

If you are looking for apartment rental, have a look at the Lagos page of this website here:

http://www.paraisolpraia.com/index.php?content=sel_prop&town=001

The site is still being developed for 2009 so you would have to email them on:

paraisolpraia@gmail.com

They have rental apartments on Meia Para Beach that I know, but you need a car.

I can also suggest you look at

http://www.holidayslagos.com/english.html

Don't worry about the site. The owner is reputable and has a good range of properties.

For the above two you can say you were referred by Barlaventoexpert!

You may find some more nuggets of interest by searching my blog here:


http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com

2) In the Eastern Algarve, I would recommend Tavira which like Lagos retains a sense of character.

I not sure what your budget is but I can recommend the Hotel Vila Galé in Tavira.

http://www.vilagale.pt/pages/hoteis/?hotel=3

As regards, travelling to the Algarve, make sure you do want to take the Bus.

EVA buses leave Lisbon from the Sete Rios coach station - Metro Station - Jardim Zoologico and about 12 minutes from Rossio by Metro.

However, it is you first time coming to the Algarve, you might consider the train.

The trip is spectacular. Leaving Lisbon Entrecampos Station (Metro Station - Entrecampos) you cross the 25 Abril bridge with stunning views over the Tejo and then pass through the Alentejo until reaching the Algarve. There are two fast Alfa-Pendular trains and several Intercity trains per day. The former are air conditioned.

For Lagos, you would change trains to a local train at Tunes, while

for Tavira, you would change trains at Faro.

You can find a direct link to the pdf version of the current CP timetable for this route on my blog:

Scroll down on the right and you will find at panel entitled:

http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com

»» Algarve & Portugal - Travel Transport Links

In this panel look for:

>>>Portuguese Railways - 2008 - Lisbon - Algarve Faro/Lagos Timetable

Click on it to download the timetable in pdf form.

As regards, car hire most vehicles in Portugal are manual shift. Automatics are available at a premium and need to booked well in advance.

In Lisbon & Tavira, I would recommend AutoJardim.

http://www.carhireyes.com/autojardim/

In Lagos, I would recommend Luzcar (they could meet you off the train)

http://www.paraisolpraia.com/carhirealgarve/index.php?option=en

As regards day trips to Porto, your best bet would be by High Speed Alfa-Pendular Train from Sta. Apolonia Station.

You can find the timetable in my blog as indicated above under:

>> Porto - Lisbon - Porto Train Timetable

Current trip time is 2hr:45min each way so you will not have lot of time.

Really you should concentrate on the River area and the Centre of the Town.

For more info, have a look at this link to the Porto offical tourism site:

http://www.portoturismo.pt/index.php?m=1&s=3

Lisbon to Sagres

There are three main very reasonable ways to get to Sagres from Lisbon, all via Lagos.

1) Rail/Bus

There are several trains a day from Lisbon Gare Oriente or Entrecampos stations via Tunes to Lagos.

Price per ticket one way will be +- € 23.00 per person depending on train

For timetable info, go to my blog at:


http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com/2008/04/lisbon-to-sagres.html

Scroll down on the right and you will find at panel entitled:

»» Algarve & Portugal - Travel Transport Links

In this panel look for:

# RENEX Bus Service - Lisbon to Algarve timetable

Click on it to download the timetable in pdf format.

At Lagos, you walkover the marina bridge to the bus station and take a bus to Sagres. These leave on average every 90 minutes during the day.

If you go to my blog at:

http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com/

You will see a copy of this message with a copy of the current Lagos - Sagres bus Timetable in png format. Click on it and it will enlarge.



2)Bus/Bus

Rede Expressos/EVA operate buses throughout the day from Lisbon Sete Rios Bus Station to Lagos. Cost per person circa € 18.00 one way.

I have again placed a copy of the timetable on my blog.Click on it and it will enlarge.



Again from Lagos Bus Station grab a bus to Sagres

2)Bus/Bus

RENEX operate buses throughout the day from Lisbon Gare Orients Bus Station to Lagos. Cost per person circa € 18.00 one way.

In Lagos this drops you off at the Repsol Garage and you have a 10 minute walk to the Lagos Bus Station where you can get a bus to Sagres

For timetable info, go to my blog at:

http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com/2008/04/lisbon-to-sagres.html

Scroll down on the right and you will find at panel entitled:

»» Algarve & Portugal - Travel Transport Links

In this panel look for:

Portuguese Railways - 2008 - Lisbon - Algarve Faro/Lagos Timetable

Click on it to download the timetable in pdf format.

CP - Portuguese Railways - Labour Disputes - Warning

Although there is a general tomorrow in Portugal, there are also ongoing periodic rail strikes and "works to rule" continuing on the railways. Although I live here, speak Portuguese, and was full aware of the problem , we got nobbled this morning when taking a train from Lisbon to Lagos. We picked up a ticket to get the 10:29 Intercidades from Lisbon to Tunes, whence we would have changed train to Lagos. We were not advised at the ticket office in Lisbon, that the connecting train from Tunes to Lagos was cancelled due to strikes! Furthermore, the ticket collector on-board the train smiled sweetly at us when we presented our tickets, said "mude em Tunes" (change in Tunes - as usual) and then carried on with no mentioned of the strikes or "work to rule". On disembarking at Tunes, (at 13:20) along with many locals, there was a garbled message which no one could hear because of the departing train. Following discussions with some interested locals over the lines, and using the help line, I established that the 13h25 to Lagos was cancelled owing to "strike action" and that the next train was at 16:57. In the end, we clubbed together with some locals and took a taxi at a considerable extra expense back to Lagos. The real issue is that information on late cancellations is not being passed on to the ticket offices, etc. As regards travelling to the Algarve, I therefore have to strongly recommend that anyone seeking to head from Lisbon to the Western Algarve, (i.e. Silves, Portimão and Lagos), DO NOT, for the present, use rail travel. There is no indication yet as to whether the current work to rule is going to continue after the national rail strike on 1st November, and as alternative public transport from Tunes to the above centres is non-existent, you may end up paying € 12:50 each for a cab with four people to get to Lagos. I STRONGLY recommend that anyone seeking to travel from Lisbon to the Western Algarve USE one of the three bus services, Renex, Rede Expessos or EVA (Search this forum for information this!:) I also strongly recommend travellers to continue to use this option until the rail labour disputes end! If these labour disputes do not end soon, I can see Portuguese Railways local rail services going out of business and, in reality, pehaps that would be the best giving the problems being faced by tourist visiting the Algarve!

Lisbon to Lagos by Road

You are really not leaving much time to spend in Lisbon which is a lovely city.

While you are there you must see at a minimum the Castelo São Jorge from where you will get a great view of the City, the Praça do Comercio, Jeronimos Monastery and Belem. Also the town and Castles at Sintra.

I think you will find the IBIS Saldanha not great for parking and a lot of traffic. When I drive up from Lagos to Lisbon we usually head to the IBIS Malhoa at Avda. Jose Malhoa. This has easier access to the ring road with routes to the Algarve over either one of Lisbon's Bridges.

Parking is easier there as well. You can go round the back of the hotel where there is free parking. The Metro Stations at Jardim Zoologico and Praça de Espanha are 5-6 minutes walk away and give great access to the rest of the city. You should walk or take public transport as you will see nothing by driving.

As regards travelling to the Algarve by car be warned we are now entering the hot season. The inland route to the Algarve through the Alentejo will be hot. I always try to leave at this time of year (going either way) early morning circa 07:30 to miss the worse of the traffic in Lisbon and teh heat in the Alentejo. The Coastal route can also be hot.

Note the Motorway is a toll road from Lisbon until you get to the Algarve A22 motorway.

If you want to take the scenic route I recommend leaving Lisbon on the Motorway and coming of just past suitable a Marateca. Once on the old National Road IP1 follow the signs for Alcacer do Sal and Grandola.

Option 1

At Grandola you can go right to Sines and then follow the coast road through Vila Nova Milfontes to Odeceixe, Aljezur and Lagos.

Option 2

Continue on through Grandola until you pass Mimosa. (Stop for a coffee and a break at the first cafe on the left.) Just after Mimosa you will find a road signed to the right indicating Lagos. Take this and you will eventually wend you way to coast road mentioned above.

Option 3

Another 25 km further there is another road to the right marked Odemira. Take this and pass through Odemira following the signs for Odeceixe, Aljezur and Lagos

Option 4

Continue down the IP1 towards Albufeira. You will intersect with the A22 coastal Motorway. Bear right and continue 60km till you get to Lagos.

On the return you could follow the coastal route to Sines and from there follow the road to Troia and take the ferry over to Setubal. From there you are only 40 km from Lisbon.

There is a great IBIS at Setubal as well with garden and pool. A nice place to relax after a days drive.

Trip to Lisbon Report.

Had to go up to Lisbon yesterday from Lagos, so a short report.

Left Lagos at 13:30 by hire car provided by Luzcar.

Took the Motorway on-ramp at the Total Service Station on the road to Praia do Luz / Sagres.

Joined the A22 and ran 10kms to Bensafrim and joined the EN 120.

Followed this road through Aljezur, Rogil, Maria Vinagre, Odeceixe, into the Alentejo and then onto to Odemira.

From Odemira, continued on the N120 to Cercal. (Very windy road.) From Cercal, took the N262 to Alvalade where I turned left onto the IC 1 (old Lisbon to Algarve arterial road. ). After 5 minutes stopped in Mimosa at the last Restaurant on the left going North.

Restaurante S. Sebastião de Mimosa,Mimosa

Tel: 269 595 202

Transit time to Mimosa by this route was 1hr. 40 mins.

It was a beautiful clear day, although very cold. A bit of Sunday traffic. The Alentejo was beautiful with blue skies, green pastures and lots of happy sheep, pigs and locals.

From Mimosa, headed North up the IC 1, past Grandola until I came to the N10 just past Marateca.

Turned right and after 1km entered the A2 Motorway to Lisbon. Everything was find until I arrived 2km from the 25 de Abril Bridge over the Tagus. However, the A2 between Palmela and Coima is being widened to three lanes. Work will continued through 2010. Until then, the Vasco da Gama bridge may be a better option for accessing Lisbon from the South.

There were the usual Sunday trippers coming back from the South Bank and substantial queues which meant that it took the 20 minutes to grind past the Almada and Costa Caparica off-ramps before getting to the tolls at the Bridge.

After that it was an easy run over the bridge, coming off right at the Marques de Pombal off-ramp and through the new tunnels to Marques de Pombal. (Note strict radar/photo 50 km/hr speed controls in place in the tunnels). Turned right down Avda. de Liberdade and dived into the Restauradores Public Parking at the bottom on the Avenida. Transit time by this route with stops and the delay at the bridge about 4 hours.

Overnighted at the following:

Residêncial Florescente
Rua Portas de Santo Antão, nº99
1150 - 266 Lisboa
Tel: +351 213426609
Fax: +351 213427733
E-mail: geral@residencialflorescente.com
web: www.residencialflorescente.com

This hotel had been recommended by German friends here in Lagos. It is a 2 1/2* hostelry doing B&B.With 6th Floors is a newly refurbished old Lisbon 5 storey building. The rooms have been repainted and refubished. They are warm and comfortable, with clean bathrooms but not deluxe. The price was good to this time of year.

The hotel is opposite the Teatro Coliseu, 2 blocks from Rossio and Rossio Station.

Two notes of caution: The wifi was not working and the staff are nice but 2 generations behind in their IT skills.

The Hotel website is a disaster and when we called to book, still had to send a fax to confirm.

When we arrived the receptionist, who was very pleasant still took 10 minutes to check us in, owing to problems "with the computer". Being an IT nerd myself methinks that a lack of training was more the reason. Even speaking Portuguese it was hard work.

We were on our way to see a performance at the Teatro Chapito near the Castelo São Jorge. From the Hotel is was easy to walk down and across Praça Figueira and then down to Rua dos Correios 223/225 where one finds the Restaurante Cesteiro. We have eaten here before, Not to touristy as it serves Bank staff during the week and very good Portuguese Food. The Bacalhau was wonderful, as was the Caldo Verde Soup. However, I had to chase them to heat the soup up for me, as it was done "Lisbon style" whereas I like my soup hot.

After dinner it was a 12 minute-walk uphill to the Chapitu on a cold but clear night. Wine on the terrace overlooking the Tagus bridge and then to see "O Tempestade", a visual take of Shakespeare's the Tempest, produced by John Mowat and performed by the "Companhia de Chapitu", with Jorge Cruz, Marta Cequeira, Tiago Viegas. As usual, a brilliant performance by these excellent young Portuguese Actors.

Returned the same way to Lagos today. A couple of notes. Being Monday a lot more heavy traffic on the road, It is obvious that many truckers are being told to avoid using Motorways to save on tolls. The Old Lisbon - Algarve IC 1 was very busy with heavy vehicles as a result and slow down our return transit on this route to 4 hours. However, the countryside is beautiful.

It is also noticeable as a result that the road pavement between Marateca and south of Grandola has been badly deformed. So a bumpy ride on this route. In future, unless this route is improved, I will probably join the A2 motorway at Grandola South and pay the tolls to get to and form Lisbon.

Lisbon - Tavira - Sagres - Lisbon

Firstly, it is all eminently possible within the time frame outlined.

Assuming you are arriving Lisbon Airport, picking up your car from there and leaving for the South straight away, I would suggest that you proceed straight to Tavira via the Vasco da Gama Bridge, A2 toll motorway and the A22 Via de Infante motorway.

Viamichelin.com gives the following details:

Costs 44.79 EUR
Toll 17.85 EUR
Petrol 26.94 EUR

Transit Time 02h52 (Allow 3hrs 15mins with stops.)
Distance 299km

As regards the return, I suggest that you use a combination of the A22 and EN 125 Algarve coastal arterial roads to visit the places you wish to see. I recommend visiting Silves and Lagos definitely.

I suggest you might want to base youself in Sagres while exploring the Western Algarve. I can recommend the Albergaria Mareantes as a medium cost quality B&B. To make a reservation, contact Maria de Jesus via the details shown on this page.

http://www.paraisolpraia.com/index.php?content=contact

For the return to Lisbon, I recommend that you follow the N268 from Sagres through Vila de Bispo to the Alfambra junction, then the N120 through Aljezur, Rogil, Odeceixe, Vila Nova Milfontes. Depending how often you stop this should not take more than 4 hours.

North at Vila Nova de Milfontes, turn left at Brunheiras and visit Porto Covo, awind swept beach on this Alentejo coast.

Then head North to Sines. I would not recommend staying in Sines as it is a port town. Head North from Sines up the N261 - 5, the N 261, and the N 253-1 to Troia.

There are hotels there or you can cross the Sado Estuary on the car ferry and visit Setubal, (recommended). There is an Ibis Hotel just out of Setubal in the N10 heading south which I can recommend. There is also a Novotel there as well.

From Setubal you are only 40 minutes by motorway from Lisbon Airport via the Vasco Da Gama Bridge.

I often drive Algarve - Lisbon - Lagos by both routes and a non-stop transit time takes me no longer than 4 hours.

If you want to reduce costs, take the I would suggest that you proceed straight to Tavira via the Vasco da Gama Bridge, A2 and leave the toll road at off ramp 6 - Marateca. Get onto the N10/IC1 south and continue till you come to the A22 Guia intersection. Follow the on ramp for Faro and continue till you come to the Tavira of ramp.

Note that the speed limit on the N10/IC1 is 90 km/hr. The are regular police checks. Allow an extra 75 minutes at least if using this route.

Hope this helps.

Lagos, Algarve - Midnight bar curfew from February?

Regrettably, this has been in the air for years.

Despite the economic crisis and the travails it has brought, Lagos Council seems hell bent on continuing to destroy what little remains of its night-life attraction. While I can sympathise with the issue of noise in the old town, it is a regrettable side effect of about the only economic raison d'etre for the town, at present.

Fishing is practically dead, the cost of parking is chasing people away from down-town shops, and this latest move will contribute to the slow death for the solo traveler business.

Lagos, for many years, has been on the European backpacker route for US and Antipodean travelers. One of the attractions has been the late night activity. This has generate substantial income for Lagos in terms of backpacker hostels, etc. It has also spread the word about the desirability of Lagos as a holiday destination.

Lagos is already suffering from a number of almost terminal hits.

I have never seen Lagos so quiet as over the past few days. Even the Vila Galé Hotel only had 20 to 30 cars in the car park over Christmas.

Meia Praia is empty. Usually there is the usual small crowd of folk from Lisbon, Seville etc. This year none!!!!

Lagos in the Algarve is dying. The local youth are moving away and it is not just because of the economic crisis.

I suspect, that in the absence of having money to spend, and to try to distract the populace from the fact that vast amounts of money do not appear to have been spent wisely in Lagos in recent years, the Council, with elections coming up in late 2013, are trying to push through a measure that will be popular with residents of the old town, irrespective of the economic consequences.

Given the increased cost and difficulty of getting to Lagos, what with ongoing train strikes, motorway tolls, reduce frequencies of flights to Faro, the prognosis for this town is not good.

I have always made an effort to promote and encourage folk to visit Lagos, but these latest measures are making me actively desist from promoting it.

I no longer can recommend Lagos as an ideal cost-effective destination for holidays.

I now prefer to encourage travelers to visit Lisbon, where there is still a night life, a greater range of things to do and tourist offers, and some great beaches at Oeiras, Carcavelos and Estoril. From there, it is also much easier to visit other parts of Portugal, than it is from Lagos.

In the Algarve, albeit the eastern end, it appears that Olhão and Monte Gordo are making a real effort to promote themselves as "visitor friendly destinations"!!

Bus from Lisbon to Lagos

(This is an example itinerary on how to get, by public transport, from Lisbon Airport to Lagos, Algarve based on a mid/late-morning flight arrival.)

With children, I would usually recommend the train.

There is a 14h20 train departure from Lisbon Gare Oriente arriving in Lagos at 18h57. (Change at Tunes junction.) One can buy tickets online at www.cp.pt (click on the Union Jack in the top right hand corner for the english version.)

There is a 12:30 departure EVA Bus departure from Lisbon Sete Rios Bus Station arriving Lagos Bus Station at 16:15. One would need to take a taxi from the Airport to the Bus Station, as timing may be tight by the time one pass through immigration and collect your bags. This bus does NOT stop en route...there is an on-board toilet. One can buy tickets on-line through http://www.rede-expressos.pt/. (click on the Union Jack in the top right hand corner for the english version.)

If you miss this bus, the next service from this bus station is the 14:00 Rede Expressos arriving 18:05 and there will be a 15 to 20 minute stop en route. (Instructions for ticket purchase as above)

The Renex.pt bus takes the longest but there is one that leaves Lisbon Gare Oriente Train/Bus station at 13:00 arriving Lagos 17:30. There will be a 15 to 20 minute stop en route. This appears time-wise to be the best connection. However, purchasing tickets for these Renex services outside Portugal can be a pain. The Lagos Renex agent says that if one calls the Lisbon office on 218 956 836, they can reserve seats and one can pick up the tickets at the RENEX Gare Oriente Ticket office on arrival there. There is no email service.

The problem with groups and in high season one really needs to reserve tickets before hand to ensure seats.

If one choosea either the RENEX Bus or the CP Train from Lisbon Gare Oriente, one can get the Lisbon Metro Red Line from the Airport in the direction of São Sebastião. It is only three stops.

From Lagos to Luz one has have two options: taxi or bus

The relevant bus timetable can be found here:

aonda.pt/templates/…Linha4Amarela.pdf

Trip to Portugal and the Algarve

I find your comment about trains between Lisbon and the Algarve - "there no none when I was last there" strange as the railway line between the two was built in the 1880's and has carried at least 4 passenger trains a day between the two over the past 15 years.

I have published an extract of the current train timetable between Lisbon and Faro here:

See: http://amplify.com/u/ehhy

I have published an extract of the current Algarve Line weekday train timetable here:

http://amplify.com/u/ehi6

If you want to explore the region between Lisbon and the Algarve the only real way to do it is by car. The train trip is great and you will see some great countryside but you will not see the whole expanse of the region.

As regards staying in the Algarve and travelling to Spain, it is likely the electronically collected tolls will be introduced on the Algarve Arterial Motorway before May 2010. It is not clear yet how these are to be collected from visitors as there will be no toll booths. However, it will add to the cost of travelling into Spain.

The car hire company in the Algarve I would normally recommend is Luzcar. You can find their offers here:

http://www.lagoscarhire.com/

The problem is that they are based in Lagos in the Western end of the Algarve, (end of the Algarve Rail line). Remember to specify an automatic if you are not comfortable with manual shift. You will pay a premium however. Most European hire cars are manual shift.

However, Lagos is one of the nicest towns in the Algarve with great beaches and with the opportunity to also explore the region towards Sagres and Cape St. Vincent, the most south-westerly point of Europe.  

If you intend taking a hire car in Lisbon or the Algarve and delivering it back to Lisbon, I recommend Auto Jardim - see: http://www.autocarhire.net.

Remember in all cases to stipulate that you want to take the car to Spain. There should be no problem, but it may be necessary to pay a small extra charge.

As regards hotels, have a look at the Vila Galé, Meia Praia, Lagos, the Yellow Hotel, Lagos, the Vila Galé Tavira near Tavira and the Martinhal Resort Hotel in Sagres.

Lisbon to Lagos- Train or Bus?

The main differences are as follows:

1) The train route is, in my opinion, more photogenic.

There is a great, if brief, crossing of the 25 de Abril Bridge which allows a wonderful view, in the day time down along the Tejo from Lisbon to Cascais.

There is then a lovely run through the Alentejo, which gives one a real taste of rural southern Portugal.

Be aware that you have to change trains at Tunes junction to a local rattler that wanders its way through the Western Algarve to Lagos. Again you get to see more than you would in the bus.

2) The trains from Lisbon to Tunes and onward to Faro have buffet cars onboard so that you can get up, wander around, have a coffee or a glass of wine, and thus is less restricting than a bus.

3) The two main bus routes follow the A2 tool main motorway from Lisbon the Algarve and then the A22 Via de Infante Algarve Arterial Motorway to Lagos.

4) The EVA buses from Lisbon Sete Rios only take 3hrs45 mins but are non-stop to Lagoa and then stop only in Portimão, Praia da Rocha, and then Lagos. They have pokey onboard toilets.

5) Renex buses from Lisbon Gare Oriente follow the same route to then end of the A2 motorway but then have more stops along the Western Algarve. They do stop for 15 minutes en route for Coffee etc. They can take up to +4 hours.

6) There are also a couple of daily Rede Expressos buses from Lisbon Sete Rios that follow rural routes through via Messines or via Odemira and Aljezur to Lagos. Again these take +4 hours.

For trains, you can by tickets/make reservations at most self-respecting CP(Portuguese Railways) stations in Lisbon. I would recommend Entrecampos,Gare Oriente,Stª.Apolonia, and I think from memory, Restauradores Station (Sintra Line).

For the buses:

1) EVA/Rede Expressos - Lisbon Sete Rios Bus Station Ticket Office (Metro/CP Station Sete Rios)
2) RENEX - Lisbon Gare Oriente Bus Station Ticket Office (Metro/CP Station Sete Rios)

As regards purchasing tickets at the tourist office at Lisbon Airport or Restauradores/Liberdade not sure, Maybe someone can advise?

Sorry there's too much information. It's the first time we've had that complaint as far as I know.

The Algarve

I remember Albufeira +40 years ago when it was still principally a small fishing village with only one or two buildings with more than two floors. Driving down from Lisbon took five to six hours on twisty cork and almond tree-lined roads. Faro Airport had just opened.

However, at that time, Portugal still had an empire generating its economic wealth and Lisbon was the bustling capital of an empire. I remember the first morning in the Mundial Hotel, in Lisbon, waking up to sound of trams rattling through the streets and fishmongers and other traders still pushing their barrows though the area around Mem Martins and Praça da Figueira plying their wares. A fascinating introduction to a new culture for a young teenager, whose experience of life till then had been restricted to Southern Africa.

However, life is a dynamic and all things move on. 1974 saw the Revolution in Portugal and overnight the country lost it Empire and much of its economic wealth, It also had to accommodate over a million retornados from its colonies, One obvious source of such wealth was to promote the development of tourism in the Algarve to pick up on the overflow form the beginnings of mass tourism to the Spanish Costas and Greek islands.

Subsequently, following Portugal's entry to the EU in 1986, there was a increase in mass movement by retiree's and others from other EU states to retire/live in the Algarve.

Hence the transmogrification of the region into a destination for wine filled, sun splashed hedonism for Northern Europeans!

Regrettably, the Algarve's cultural heritage was not really protected or enhanced during this period, Lagos, where I live, has a phenomenal history with recently research by the University of Seville recovering artifacts of Phonecian origin. The Romans were here and in Tavira, The Moors were in Silves. At this time, the Algarve region was part of the Moorish kingdom or Al-Andaluz and was known in Arabic as the Al-Gharb.

Sir Francis Drake and Sir John Hawkins shelled Lagos while they were still privateers, and Lagos as well as Sagres were critical key ports in the Portuguese Voyages of discovery which opened the sea route to the Asia around the Cape of Good Hope in the 14C/15C. Without this great Portuguese success, neither the Dutch nor the British would have had their empires in the form they subsequently took. Lagos was the capital of the Algarve until much of the old town was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.

I was privileged a few years ago to be passing a dig by the city walls near the Bombeiros and to see two skeletons been excavated from what was probably the graveyard of the church that stood in Largo Sta. Maria until the eartquake.

There are also apocryphal stories that illiterate fisherman without compasses from Olhão in the Algarve crossed the Atlantic to Brazil in 1830 to take news to the Portuguese Royal family resident in Brazil at the time.

The Algarve has a tremendous cultural heritage...it is just that there is not one museum, historical theme park, son et lumière, or other facility that promotes it in a way comprehensible to visitors. It is a tremendous shame!

This lack of cultural awareness and promotion of cultural tourism to the Algarve is problematical and contributes of the lack of year round stable economic activity here.

It is interesting that there is increasing evidence that European tourists, in particular, are increasingly much more interested in taking city breaks to Lisbon and Porto than visiting the Algarve.

See, for example, this recent article: http://bit.ly/biaR5d

Consequently, I must concur that if one is in Lisbon and one wants to take a side trip elsewhere in Portugal to see more than sea and sand, head north to Coimbra, Obidos, Alcobaça, Batalha, Porto, Torres Vedras etc.

A final note, with regards to the comments above about the behavior of foreign tourists here, I have been helping a friend out managing a 16 bed villa here this summer. The owner lives in the UK. What possessed her, I do not know, (greed probably!) but she rented the property this week to 14 English soccer fans.

I can tell you, that being called out to extract beer cans, various body coverings, hair etc, etc from a jacuzzi filter after a wild 18hr booze fueled party is not my idea of culture either!!

Lagos Taxis

All the taxis in Lagos are part of a co-operative which has a monopoly.

I know a young Portuguese man who works a second job as a local taxi driver at night and I offered to put his own number on my blog to help him get business. He said he was not allowed to privately tout for work and all business had to come through the co-op.

It is an absolute rip off. I live in Meia Praia and when I need to get a cab into or out of town, not only are the prices ridiculous but often the taxis will not come here as they don't make enough on it!
When I have to get an early morning train to Faro or Lisbon, I have to make sure I travel with a suitcase I can wheel to Meia Praia Halt as dragging it all the way to Lagos Station is not on.

Unfortunately,neither the local Camara nor the regional tourism authorities appear to be aware or want to be aware of a problem that causes a lot of hassles for tourists.

Liberalisation of the local taxi system would reduce prices, would reduce costs of getting to and from Faro Airport, and would create jobs.

Prices here are also crazy when compared to the prices of taxis in Lisbon.

There may be a case for referring the taxi price monopoly in Lagos and other towns throughout the EU with similar problems through to the competition authorities in Brussels but that's beyond my competence to say.

That's also why it is usually much more cost effective to hire a car at Faro Airport on arrival and drive to, from and around Lagos.

Lisbon to Vilamoura

There are two or three things to consider in making your decision as to how to get to Vilamoura from Lisbon.

1) Vilamoura is not the Algarve! It a modern Golf/Marina Complex. There are regular public buses to Quarteira and Albufeira during the day but if you want to explore the Algarve during your week here, a hire car is highly recommended.

The region is only about 160km by 40 km but its wide diversity from the wild rocky west coast, the historic town of Lagos where I live, to the inland hills and the Spanish border, is very difficult to explore without a car.

Consequently, you might consider hiring a car.

If you did, I would recommend picking it up at Lisbon Airport on your departure from Lisbon, cross the Tejo by the Vasco da Gama bridge and take the toll-motorway to the Algarve. On arriving at the A22, bear left on the the Via Infante Motorway and continue until you come to the Loulé/Almancil/Quarteira/ off ramp, bear right until you come to Quarteira and follow the signs for Vilamoura. (Transit Time with stops - 3 hours.)

A reputable hire company in Lisbon is Auto-Jardim.

You can see details here:

http://www.carhireyes.com/autojardim/

If you follow this option make sure you specifiy if you need an automatic, as most vehicles this side of the pond are manual shift.

2) If you really just want to relax in the Hilton, or not hire a car, I would recommend the train as it is a wonderful trip over the 25 Abril bridge and through the Alentejo. There is a cafe on-board and it is a wonderful relaxing way to spend 3,5 to 4 hours.

There are two types of Intercity - Alpha Pendular & Intercidades.

- The first operate twice daily from Lisbon Gare Oriente, via Lisbon Entrecampos stations to the Algarve. If you are staying in a central Lisbon Hotel the second station is the one you want.

- The second type are called Intercidades and follow the same route but stop at more stations and operate three times a day. There is a fourth evening service on Fridays.

You can find the timetable on my blog by scrolling down on the right hand panel, until you come to the section entitled:

>>>> Algarve & Portugal - Travel Transport Links

Click on the item

>>>> # Portuguese Railways - 2008 - Lisbon - Algarve Faro/Lagos Timetable

You will be able to download it in pdf format.

For Vilamoura you will want to detrain at Loulé Station. There are often no taxis there but am sure you can ask the Hilton to have one meet you. It will take about 15 minutes from there to Vilamoura. Alterntively, continue to Faro Station where there are always taxis. It will take 25 minutes to Vilamoura and cost about € 25 to € 35 depending on time of day/week.

3) If buses really are you preference, bus operator RENEX operate several services daily from Lisbon Gare Oriente (same as the train station) to Vilamoura.

You can find the timetable on my blog by scrolling down on the right hand panel, until you come to the section entitled:

>>>> Algarve & Portugal - Travel Transport Links

Click on the item:

>>>> RENEX Bus Service - Lisbon to Algarve timetable

Look at the the top panel entitled Lisboa - Loulé - Lisboa

N.B. "P" means departure / "C" means arrival.

Note that there is no Metro link yet to Lisbon Airport. On arrival you will need to grab a taxi or bus to your hotel.

Operator Rede Expressos also operates this route. Buses leave from Lisbon Sete Rios Coach Station (Metro Jardim Zoologico.)

I have published a copy of the relevant timetable here:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/2929565/3seteriosvilamoura


Hope this helps and thanks again for contacting me.

Southern Portugal Itinerary

Sintra is only 30kms from Lisbon and is in fact now virtually a suburb of Lisbon.

I would suggest something along the following lines:

Full Day 1 -- Lisbon - See the Baixa, Alfama and possibly take the tram to Belem to see the Jeronimos Monastery and the tower of Belem.
Full Day 2 -- Lisbon - Take the Train from Rossio Station to Sintra (+- 60 minutes by train)- Full day in Sintra and/or take a bus to Cascais (Scotturb 403 every 75 minutes or so) or Estoril . Return from Cascais by train to Cais de Sodre station (+- 45 minutes). Wander up to the Bairro Alto for dinner.
Full Day 3 -- Lisbon - Tidy up what you didn't achieve on the first two days.
Full Day 4/5/6 -- Pick Up car at Lisbon Airport - Head North to Obidos, Batalha, Alcobaça and Nazare as public transport links to these from Lisbon are slow and convoluted. You might even have time to stay in Coimbra. There are IBIS Hotels in Leiria and Coimbra which might be good economic bases to stay at.
Full Day 7 - Head back via Santarem and the inland bank of the Tagus to Evora.
Full Day 8 - Day in Evora
Full Day 9 - Leave Evora and travel via Monsaraz (Fortified Hill top town) and Alqueva Dam to Serpa. (I recommend Casa da Serpa - see http://www.casadeserpa.com/ )
Full Day 9 - Travel via Beja and Mertola to Tavira.
Full Day 10 - Tavira and possibly old Town Faro or pop over the Guadiana to Ayamonte in Spain for Tapas.
Full Day 11 - Tavira
Full Day 12 - Lagos - Explore Lagos
Full Day 13 - Lagos - explore West Coast to Sagres.
Full Day 14 - Leave Lagos and make your way by car up the West Coast to Setubal. Stay at the IBIS just outside Setubal. Explore are and then head for Lisbon Airport (40 minutes).

I understand your concerns about driving on the wrong side. However, once you are clear of Lisbon, things are very easy as we have an excellent motorway system. To undertake the itinerary you want to do, hiring a car is the only realistic option if you don't want to spends hours grinding around on local buses or trains. This is particularly true when trying to visit Obidos, Nazare etc.

Check out some of my comments about this on my blog:

http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com
http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com/search?q=Obidos+Nazare
http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com/search/label/Portugal%20Lisbon%20Praya%20de%20Rey%20Obidos
http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com/search/label/Portugal%20Lisbon%20Nazar%C3%A9
http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com/search/label/Portugal%20Lisbon%20Figueira%20da%20Foz

Lagos, Portugal to Lisbon, Portugal using eva-bus.com

I use the EVA bus/coach service from Lagos to Lisbon frequently.

The service from Lagos calls at Praia da Rocha, Portimão, Lagoa and then proceeds DIRECT NON-STOP to Lisboa Sete Rios Rodoviarío (bus station).

Lisboa Sete Rios Bus Station

IT DOES NOT PASS GO! IT DOES NOT COLLECT €200!!

Transit time from Lagos is 3hr45mins.

There is NO STOP between Lagoa and Sete Rios! This takes about 2hrs45mins

There is an on-board toilet and occasionally, a cafe service.

If the bus is full it can be fun!!.

On-board EVA Bus leaving Lagos, Portugal

Rede-Expressos and RENEX buses from Lagos to Lisbon do stop en-route, usually at the Aljustrel Service Area on the A2 Lisbon - Algarve Motorway. Transit Time is longer (up to 4hrs30mins) but, at least, one has 15 minutes to stretch one's legs. If one, takes the overnight RENEX service, and there are no clouds, one has the opportunity to marvel for 15 minutes at the beautiful night sky over the Alentejo!

Between the three bus services, there are, at least, 16 daily services between Lagos and Lisbon. In Summer frequencies increase.

Lagos Bus Station

A Final Point! The Renex service has its Lisbon terminal at Gare Oriente Bus Station which is only 3 Metro stops from Lisbon Airport.

Flights to Faro

At present, there are currently no direct flights scheduled from Faro to Milano in either the winter or summer 2013.

Ryanair have tried to animate routes to both Milano/Bergamo & Orio al Serio in previous seasons, as well as to Madrid and Barcelona.

Indeed, I even understand that for Summer 2013 there will be no route to Madrid.

Unfortunately, it appears that low usage resulted in these being dropped. Efforts have been made to promote the Algarve as a tourist destination into the Italian and Spanish market but with little success. So existing scheduled routes target the destinations in the Algarve's main target markets...viz. UK, Ireland, the Netherlands, Germany, Belgium, France, Scandanavia, Switzerland, Canada, Luxembourg and certain charter markets such as Poland, Finland and Russia.

Decreases in visitor numbers to the Algarve is severely affecting Faro's attractiveness as a flight destination and I am afraid it is only going to get worse.

I recently had to travel from Lagos, Algarve to Pompeii in Italy via Napoli. The only options were either via Sevilla or Lisboa. In the end, because I like Seville and had to spend the night there, I took the twice daily bus from the Algarve to Seville and then flew Vueling.com from there.

I am increasingly recommending folk want to travel to and from the Algarve to consider usingLisbon as their gateway. There are frequent buses between Albufeira and other Algarve towns to Lisbon, taking three to four hours and from Lisbon there is a much greater choice to flights to a variety of European and destinations including Italy.

As regards France, ryanair.com fly several times a week to Paris Beauvais.

Have a specific look at vueling.com. They are the only real low-cost airline that I know that offers through booking. When I flew from Seville to Napoli in November 2012, I got a ticket for €55.00. The route, however, was by one aircraft from Seville to Barcelona, a two hour stop-over and then another Barcelona to Napoli.

Vueling.com fly from Lisbon as well.

On final option to consider, could be flying Ryanair from Faro to Porto. There are many more flights from Porto into destinations in France, Spain and Italy than there are from Faro.

Flights from Faro Airport to Central Europe

At present, there are currently no direct flights scheduled from Faro to Milano in either the winter or summer 2013.

Ryanair have tried to animate routes to both Milano/Bergamo & Orio al Serio in previous seasons, as well as to Madrid and Barcelona.

Indeed, I even understand that for Summer 2013 there will be no route to Madrid.

Unfortunately, it appears that low usage resulted in these being dropped. Efforts have been made to promote the Algarve as a tourist destination into the Italian and Spanish market but with little success. So existing scheduled routes target the destinations in the Algarve's main target markets...viz. UK, Ireland, the Netherlands, Germany, Belgium, France, Scandanavia, Switzerland, Canada, Luxembourg and certain charter markets such as Poland, Finland and Russia.

Decreases in visitors is severely affecting Faro's attractiveness as a flight destination and I am afraid it is only going to get worse.

I recently had to travel from Lagos, Algarve to Pompeii in Italy via Napoli. The only options were either via Sevilla or Lisboa. In the end, because I like Seville and had to spend the night there, I took the twice daily bus from the Algarve to Seville and then flew Vueling.com from there.

I am increasingly recommending folk want to travel to and from the Algarve to consider using Lisbon as their gateway. There are frequent buses between Albufeira and other Algarve towns to Lisbon, taking three to four hours and from Lisbon there is a much greater choice to flights to a variety of European and destinations including Italy.

As regards France, ryanair.com fly several times a week to Paris Beauvais.

Have a specific look at vueling.com. They are the only real low-cost airline that I know that offers through booking. When I flew from Seville to Napoli in November 2012, I got a ticket for €55.00. The route, however, was by one aircraft from Seville to Barcelona, a two hour stop-over and then another Barcelona to Napoli.

Vueling.com fly from Lisbon as well.

On final option to consider, could be flying Ryanair from Faro to Porto. There are many more flights from Porto into destinations in France, Spain and Italy than there are from Faro.

Porto to Lagos - Summer 2009

Both options are equally feasible.

My partner often goes up to Porto from Lagos to teach. She takes the train. The only problem is that the first 60kms from Lagos to Tunes Junction is on a local Algarve Line rattler.

The benefit of the train is that you can get up and walk around, go to the on-board cafe.

There are two Hi-Speed Alfa Pendular though trains per day from Porto to Tunes and vice versa.

If you go to my blog here,

http://barlaventostravelblog.blogspot.com/2009/06/porto-to-lagos-summer-2009.html



(Click on image to enlarge)


I have published an extract from the current Portuguese railways timetable for the run Porto to Lagos.

Transit time is between 6hrs45mins and over 8 hours.

There are two bus operators on the route. Renex and Rede Expressos.
Only Renex neatly ties in with the train as its Lisbon Station is at Gare Oriente.

Rede Expressos may be the best bus option. However, at time of writing, their website was down. Transit time will be about 7:hrs + but one would have to change train in Lisbon.

Renex takes 3hrs:30mins from Porto to Lisbon and 4hrs:30mins from Lisbon to Lagos.

The bus stops en route between Lisbon and Lagos.

The bus route is not as scenic as the Train route and you can't move around.

Personally for not much more I would normally recommend the train.

Portugal Motorways - Electronic tolls be very aware

Quote from post by Meathlady on Porto Forums of TripAdvisor.....

Full post here: "http://j.mp/9BBwXp"


"Electronic tolls be very aware ”- Nov 01, 2010, 4:14 PM

The Portuguese government in their wisdom have introduced electronic tolls on some of their motorways, we were caught out on our way to Porto. I do not mind paying tolls I do object when their is no way for visitors leaving the country to pay and have heard I am going to be levied a fine of 10 times the toll.

We collected hire care in Lisbon no mention from the car hire company of the new tolls, on heading to Porto noticed signed for electronic tolls, stopped in Porto to pay we were advised to go to the Post Office. Queued for 40 mins to be told we cannot pay for 2 days at the system does not operate in real-time.

Explained we were leaving the country and got a shrug of the shoulders, no option to pay over the internet. Were given the same information by the care hire company in Porto but they did tell me I would be fined.

So tourists beware travel on electronically tolls motorways at your peril. I will NOT be going back to Portugal anytime soon".

My reply:

"Oh Dear!

I am so sorry that you have had this experience.

It was only a matter of time!

The Portuguese Govt. has not thought through the impact of the introduction of the new electronically collected tolls on tourism. In their rush to raise revenue because of Portugal's dire economic situation, they have decided to implement electronic tolls on several motorways. They intend doing this on the A22 Algarve Spinal Motorway "the Via de Infante" as from April 15th 2010.

This past summer, the Algarve Economy was saved by a massive influx of Spanish Tourists. The alternative road, the famous EN125 is not up to handling the traffic volumes.

It is my estimation that we will see a drop of up to 50% of car based travel here in the Algarve in 2011 once the word gets out about this crassly throught out system which does not even have an option to pay tolls at a service area on Portuguese motorways.

Portugal has high unemployment but in an effort to "avoid" creating more jobs, the Government has decided to go for an electronic system rather than build toll booths where people can pay and employment would be created.

I had not intended to write about this for a few more weeks as there is always hope the Portuguese Govt. will realise the damage they are causing to desperately needed tourism but your post has spurred me to action.

Personally, as a local expert for Lagos, Algarve, I have to say that I do not
recommend people visiting the Algarve next year by car, unless you are prepared to take a lot of time using old roads. If you are flying into Faro, Airport and want to hire a car, think about taking a shuttle to your destination and then hiring a car locally. Alternatively, fly to Lisbon, take a train or bus down to the Algarve, enjoying the views en route, and then hire locally.

We still do not know the price level of the tolls here , but early indication are that on the A22 Via de Infante they will be high. I suspect that instead of raising funds as they intend, this electronic toll system will be a loss leader and cause great damage to Portugal's image as a friendly tourist destination, as well has having exactly the opposite effect in maintaining economic growth.

I am not against charging reasonable tolls to fund road maintenance but tolls should be realistic and user friendly which these new ones in Portugal are not."